The power of acids in skincare
Acids in skincare might sound intimidating, but they’re actually some of the most effective ingredients for creating smooth, radiant, healthy-looking skin.
Think of them as gentle polishers for your complexion.
Chemical exfoliating acids work by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells on the surface. Instead of scrubbing or physically buffing the skin, they lift away buildup in a controlled, even way — revealing the fresh, glowing skin underneath.
The result?
Brighter tone, smoother texture, fewer breakouts, and better product absorption.
Everyday Acids vs. Professional Treatments
Not all acids are created equal — and that’s a good thing.
At-home, everyday products
Cleansers, toners, serums, and masks usually contain lower concentrations of exfoliating acids.
These are designed for gentle, consistent use to:
lightly smooth texture
brighten dullness
keep pores clear
maintain your glow
Perfect for maintenance and long-term skin health.
Professional treatments
For deeper, more transformative results, professional services like chemical peels use higher-strength acids to create intensive exfoliation and stimulate faster cellular renewal.
These treatments can:
soften fine lines
fade pigmentation
clear congestion and acne
improve overall firmness and glow
Because of their strength, chemical peels should always be performed by a licensed professional to ensure safety, proper application, and beautiful results.
The Two Most Common Types of Exfoliating Acids
Most chemical exfoliants fall into two main categories:
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
Best for: dry, dull, or aging skin
AHAs help brighten, smooth fine lines, and improve hydration, making them amazing for anti-aging.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
Best for: oily, acne-prone, or congested skin. Works deeper inside the pores.
BHAs help dissolve excess oil and debris, making them ideal for breakouts, blackheads, and clogged pores.
When used correctly, acids can truly be a game-changer for achieving clearer, more radiant, youthful-looking skin. It’s all about choosing the right strength and treatment for your skin goals — and that’s where professional guidance makes all the difference.
Which chemical exfoliant is right for my skin type? AHA or BHA?
Acids are essential in exfoliating the skin, promoting cell turnover, and enhancing collagen production, which leads to brighter, healthier skin. Let's break down the benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and how to incorporate them into your routine.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs, including Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic, and Citric acids, are water-soluble acids that work on the skin's surface to gently exfoliate dead skin cells and boost collagen renewal. Ideal for those focused on anti-aging, sun damage repair, or preventative skincare.
Popular AHAs & Their Benefits:
Glycolic Acid: My personal favorite. It has the smallest molecule size, allowing it to penetrate deeply, targeting fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and excess oil. Ideal for anti-aging, brightening, and minimizing pores.
Lactic Acid: A gentler exfoliant perfect for sensitive or acne-prone skin. It not only smooths and refines but also hydrates and balances the skin’s microbiome.
Mandelic Acid: A unique AHA that offers anti-aging and clarifying benefits. Mandelic acid also shares some characteristics of BHAs, making it effective for sensitive, oily, or acne-prone skin.
Citric Acid: Different from Vitamin C, it helps maintain a healthy skin barrier with antioxidant properties, enhancing the skin's overall radiance.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
BHAs, like Salicylic Acid, are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate deeper into the pores. They are particularly effective for acne-prone and oily skin, as they help to unclog pores and reduce breakouts.
Salicylic Acid: A go-to for treating acne, it works by clearing clogged pores, and preventing future breakouts. You can find this powerful ingredient in cleansers, toners, and treatment masks.
How to safely add acids into your skincare routine:
Start Low & Go Slow: Begin with a low concentration to allow your skin time to adjust. This helps prevent irritation while still reaping the exfoliating benefits.
Alternate with Other Actives: If you’re also using ingredients like retinol or vitamin C, alternate their use to minimize sensitivity and inflammation.
Morning: Apply Vitamin C to brighten and protect against environmental damage.
Night: Use Glycolic Acid or another exfoliating acid to promote cell turnover and renewal.
Always Wear Sunscreen
Chemical exfoliants increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Be sure to apply a broad-spectrum SPF every morning to protect your glow and prevent sun damage.
At Bisous Esthetics, we specialize in safe and effective chemical peel treatments to help you reach your skincare goals.
Sources:
https://www.byrdie.com/guide-to-citric-acid-5093236
https://www.byrdie.com/aha-vs-bha https://www.health.com/glycolic-acid-8402482#:~:text=Glycolic%20acid%20can%20irritate%20the,lactic%20acid%2C%20a%20gentler%20AHA.
https://www.verywellhealth.com/lactic-acid-skin-care-4178819
